Repairs and leaks
Fixing a dripping faucet, a running toilet, a pinhole leak in a supply line, or the leak behind a wall that shows up as a higher water bill.
A leak, a water heater, a clogged drain, or a full repipe all start the same way: you pick your own licensed, insured, vetted plumber, and your request goes to that one. Free for homeowners.
Every contractor here is licensed, insured, and vetted before they're listed. You pick the one you want, and your request goes to that one.
Plumbing runs from a small repair to replacing the pipe behind your walls. Most jobs fall into a few groups:
Fixing a dripping faucet, a running toilet, a pinhole leak in a supply line, or the leak behind a wall that shows up as a higher water bill.
Replacing aging supply lines through the house, in copper or PEX, often when old galvanized pipe starts to fail.
Replacing or installing a standard storage tank, a tankless unit, or a hybrid heat-pump model, with the venting and code upgrades that come with it.
Clearing clogs, snaking or hydro-jetting a main line, running a sewer camera, and repairing or replacing the sewer line, including trenchless methods.
Faucets, toilets, garbage disposals, sump pumps, and the shut-off valves and supply lines behind them.
Adding lines for a remodel, plus gas line work, backflow prevention testing, and water filtration or softeners.
A small repair usually goes straight to a plumber. Where the work ties into a larger remodel or addition, it tends to run through a general contractor managing the whole project.
// Plumbing work by vetted pros
Most plumbing calls start with something you can see, hear, or smell: a leak, no hot water, a drain that will not clear, or a backup that brings the whole system to a stop. A remodel is the other common reason, when a kitchen or bath needs lines moved. Whatever starts it, the first questions tend to be the same:
Many plumbers charge a service or diagnostic fee to come out, often somewhere between $75 and $150. A fair answer tells you whether that fee is separate or gets applied to the repair if you go ahead.
In most places, yes. A water heater swap is not a minor repair; it usually needs a permit and inspection so the relief valve and venting meet local code. A plumber who waves that off is cutting a corner.
Both meet code and both last decades. PEX is flexible and resists freezing and corrosion; copper is rigid and long-proven. Neither is the wrong answer, and a good plumber will explain the tradeoff for your home rather than push one.
Honest answers vary, which is exactly why a second opinion is worth it when someone jumps straight to a full replacement without showing you why.
A vetted plumber should welcome these questions. The vetting here checks the license, the insurance, and the standing before a contractor can join, so the people you are choosing from can already answer them.
Two plumbing jobs that sound the same can land at very different numbers, and a few things explain most of the gap. Access is a big one: a leak in an open crawlspace is a different job than the same leak under a concrete slab or inside a finished wall. The pipe material matters, since copper, PEX, and old galvanized steel each work differently. And bringing older work up to current code, things like seismic strapping or a thermal expansion tank on a water heater, can add to a straightforward-looking swap.
The size of the system drives the rest. A single fixture or a standard drain clearing is a smaller job. A water heater replacement, a sewer line repair, or a whole-house repipe is a major one, and the price moves with the number of stories, the number of bathrooms, the depth of the line, and whether the sewer work can be done trenchless or has to be dug. These are drivers, not quotes. The plumber you choose prices the actual job after seeing it.
If you need a way to pay for the work, financing options are available through trusted lending partners. You choose what works for you, there is no pressure, and the platform stays free for homeowners.
Plumbing often gets hired in a hurry, under stress, which is exactly when it helps to know what to check. A few things are worth a look before you commit:
Plumbing is licensed at the state or local level, and the credential is tiered: apprentice, journeyman, and master. An apprentice has to work under supervision and cannot pull permits on their own. A journeyman or master can run the work and, for a master, pull the permit. The license should be active and in the right class for your state.
General liability and workers' compensation protect you if something goes wrong on site. Underground sewer and water-line work also carries real safety rules, so the crew handling it should be properly set up for it.
Look for two separate things: the manufacturer's warranty on the equipment, like a water heater or a faucet, and the plumber's own written labor warranty on the installation. The labor warranty is the one that covers an install error, and it usually runs from one to ten years depending on the job.
The warning signs are consistent, and the research is blunt about them.
This is the part the platform is built to take off your plate. Our plumbing contractors are vetted before they can join, by people who spent their careers in the trades and know how to judge a contractor's license, insurance, record, and work. We are a platform that connects you with contractors; the contractor owns the work and the relationship. You get a shorter, safer list to choose from, and the choice stays yours.
Start your project →A few terms and a couple of myths that come up on most plumbing jobs:
They pass through the bowl but do not break down like toilet paper, and they are a leading cause of clogs deep in the line. They belong in the trash, not the toilet.
It liquefies the grease for a moment, then the grease cools, hardens on the pipe walls farther down, and builds a clog. Let it cool, scrape it into a container, and throw it out.
The harsh chemicals can soften plastic pipe, corrode older metal, and damage seals, and they leave caustic standing water behind if the clog does not clear.
Slow drains, gurgling in the walls, or a sewer smell are early warnings of a deeper blockage or a venting problem, not signs to ignore.
It breaks down over time and the grit ruins the flush valve and flapper. A certified low-flow or dual-flush setup is the real fix.
// Vetted, licensed, insured
Every plumbing contractor here is licensed, insured, and vetted before they're listed. You pick the one you want, and your request goes to that one. Your information is not sold to a list of companies who race to call you.
Start your project, choose your area, and see the vetted contractors near you.
Start your project →In most places, yes. A water heater replacement usually needs a permit and inspection so the relief valve and venting meet local code. The plumber doing the work should handle it.
Both meet code and both last for decades. PEX is flexible and resists freezing and corrosion; copper is rigid and long-proven. A good plumber will walk you through which fits your home rather than push one.
Often, yes. A jump to a full replacement with no proof of why is a common warning sign. A second look from another vetted plumber is a reasonable step before a big job.
Yes. The platform is free for homeowners, always. You choose your contractor and connect with them directly.