Repairs and replacements
A buzzing outlet, a switch that no longer works, a flickering light, or a faceplate that needs replacing. The everyday fixes.
From a panel that keeps tripping to a new circuit for an EV charger, electrical work runs on one licensed, insured, vetted electrical contractor. You pick the one you want, and your request goes to that one. Free for homeowners.
Every contractor here is licensed, insured, and vetted before they're listed. You pick the one you want, and your request goes to that one.
Residential electrical work runs from the utility connection at the side of the house all the way to the outlets and switches inside. Most jobs fall into a handful of groups:
A buzzing outlet, a switch that no longer works, a flickering light, or a faceplate that needs replacing. The everyday fixes.
Replacing or upgrading the main electrical panel, often moving from 100 amps to 200, when an older home runs short of capacity.
Adding a second smaller panel to feed an addition, a workshop, or a part of the house that needs more circuits.
Replacing old or degraded wiring, like knob-and-tube or aluminum, across part or all of a home.
A separate circuit for a single high-demand appliance, like an electric range, a water heater, or a heat pump.
A dedicated 240-volt circuit and charger for an electric vehicle, usually in or near the garage.
Whole-home surge protection, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and emergency disconnects, often added when a panel is replaced.
Some of these connect. Adding an EV charger or a big appliance can mean the panel needs an upgrade first if it is already near capacity, and replacing a panel usually brings other safety devices into the job.
// Electrical work by vetted pros
Most homeowners do not call an electrician on a quiet afternoon. Something prompts it: an outlet that buzzes or feels warm, lights that flicker when the air conditioner kicks on, a panel that keeps tripping, an older home that needs its wiring brought up to date, or a plan to add an EV charger or a new appliance. A remodel or a home sale often surfaces electrical work too. The questions tend to come up in the same order:
Some things, like a buzzing or warm outlet or a burning smell, are worth having looked at sooner rather than later. A licensed electrician can tell you what is urgent and what is not, instead of guessing.
Often a shared circuit or an undersized connection. The usual fix is a dedicated circuit, and sometimes a check of the utility line coming in.
Not always. Sometimes a subpanel adds capacity. Sometimes the main panel is near its limit and an upgrade comes first. A load calculation tells the electrician which it is.
Sometimes. Older wiring like knob-and-tube or aluminum can be a reason to rewire part or all of a home, and an electrician can assess what you actually have before quoting anything.
A vetted electrician should be able to answer each of these plainly. The vetting here checks the license, the insurance, and the standing up front, so the electrical contractors you are choosing from can already speak to these.
Two electrical jobs that sound the same can land at very different numbers, and a few things explain most of the gap. Labor is the largest piece on bigger projects, often more than half the cost, because licensing rules limit who can do the work. Access matters: a panel on an open basement wall is simpler to reach than one buried in a finished space, and wiring run through open joists is easier than wiring fished through plaster walls. The age of the home plays in too, since older wiring and outdated panels take more work to bring up to current code.
The scope drives the rest. A simple outlet or switch swap is a small job. A panel upgrade is a larger one, especially when it triggers other required safety devices like surge protection or an outdoor emergency disconnect, which current codes call for during a panel replacement. A whole-home rewire is larger still, and it usually includes patching the walls afterward. Permit fees and local code requirements vary by city, so the same work can price differently from one place to the next. None of this is a quote; it is what to expect to move the number when you talk to a contractor.
If you need a way to pay for the work, financing options are available through trusted lending partners. You choose what works for you, there is no pressure, and the platform stays free for homeowners.
Electrical work carries real safety and liability weight, so who you hire matters more than any single part. A few things are worth checking before you commit:
Electrical work calls for a category-specific license you can verify on your state's licensing database. A general handyman license usually is not enough for electrical work.
General liability protects against property damage or fire, and workers' compensation keeps an on-site injury from becoming your problem. Ask for the certificate.
Electricians move through apprentice, journeyman, and master tiers. A master electrician is the one licensed to run a business and pull permits, which most projects need.
Real electrical work gets a permit and an inspection. A contractor who wants to skip the permit on the grounds that it is "a small job" is a reason to slow down.
Scope, schedule, and what is warranted, in writing. Some safety equipment carries its own manufacturer warranty too; whole-home surge devices from established makers often include connected-equipment coverage.
The warning signs in this trade are specific and worth knowing.
This is the part the platform takes off your plate. Our electrical contractors are vetted before they can join, by people who spent their careers in the trades and know how to judge a contractor's license, insurance, record, and work. We are a platform that connects you with contractors; the contractor owns the work and the relationship. You get a shorter, safer list, and the choice stays yours.
Start your project →A few terms and a couple of myths that come up on most electrical jobs:
A GFCI protects people from shock and is required in kitchens, baths, basements, and outdoor spots. An AFCI guards against electrical fires and is required on circuits serving living and sleeping areas. Both have a test button; they do different jobs.
Two related safety practices that work together to keep voltage stable and trip a breaker fast if a wire ever contacts metal it should not. Worth knowing the words when an electrician uses them.
A circuit can run fine while hiding a real problem, like a missing ground or a loose connection that heats up behind the wall without tripping a breaker. Working is not the same as safe, which is why an inspection matters.
// Vetted, licensed, insured
Every electrical contractor here is licensed, insured, and vetted before they're listed. You pick the one you want, and your request goes to that one. Your information is not sold to a list of companies who race to call you.
Start your project, choose your area, and see the vetted contractors near you.
Start your project →For electrical work, you want a licensed electrical contractor. A general handyman license usually is not enough, and unlicensed electrical work is often uninspected and can cause trouble with your home insurance.
Not always. Sometimes a subpanel adds the capacity you need. If the main panel is near its limit, an upgrade may come first. A load calculation is how an electrician tells which one your home needs.
The contractor doing the work should pull the permit and have the job inspected. If a contractor wants to skip the permit because it is "a small job," treat it as a warning sign.
Yes. The platform is free for homeowners, always. You choose your contractor and connect with them directly.